A heat pump is the single upgrade that saves most BC homeowners the most money — and it's the one most people understand least. Here's the whole thing in plain English.
How a heat pump actually works
A heat pump doesn't burn fuel to make heat. It uses electricity to move heat from one place to another. In winter it pulls warmth out of the outside air (there's usable heat in air even at −20°C) and brings it indoors. In summer it runs in reverse — pulling heat out of your house and dumping it outside, exactly like an air conditioner.
That "moving instead of making" trick is why it's so efficient: for every unit of electricity it uses, it delivers roughly three units of heat.
One machine, both jobs
A heat pump replaces your furnace and your air conditioner. For most BC homes switching off gas, that means heating bills drop and you get whole-home cooling you probably never had — increasingly useful as summers get hotter.
Ducted vs. ductless — which fits your home
Air-source heat pumps (the right type for almost every BC home) come in two layouts:
| Type | Best for | How it looks |
|---|---|---|
| Ductless (mini-split) | Homes on electric baseboards with no ductwork | An outdoor unit feeds one or more wall-mounted indoor "heads" |
| Ducted (central) | Homes replacing a gas or electric furnace | An outdoor unit connects to your existing ducts |
If you're on a gas furnace (common in the Fraser Valley and Interior), a ducted heat pump usually reuses your existing ducts. If you're on baseboards, a ductless multi-split is often simpler and cheaper.
How efficient, really?
- Up to 300% more efficient than electric baseboard heating.
- Up to 50% more efficient for cooling than a typical window AC unit.
- Often cheaper to run than a natural-gas furnace, depending on gas and electricity prices.
"But do they work in the cold?"
Yes — modern cold-climate models are rated to keep working down to about −30°C. In the coldest snaps some homes use a small backup (electric strips or the existing furnace in a "dual-fuel" setup), but the heat pump does the heavy lifting the vast majority of the year. We go deeper in Do heat pumps actually work in a BC winter?
What to check before you buy
- Variable-speed compressor. It's required for rebates and it's simply better — quieter and cheaper to run than single- or two-speed units.
- Right-sized to your home. A good contractor calculates your heating load. Insulating first lets you install a smaller, cheaper unit — which is why we say insulation first.
- The efficiency ratings. Higher HSPF (heating) and SEER (cooling) mean lower bills. Ask for the "capacity maintenance ratio" at −15°C for winter performance.
- Covers at least 50% of your home — a rebate condition.
- Who files the rebates. Your contractor applies through BetterHomes BC, not you. That makes contractor choice matter — see red flags when choosing an installer.
What it costs (and what you get back)
Installed cost typically runs $6,000–$16,000 depending on system type, home size, and electrical work. Against that, rebates run from $4,000 (no income test) up to $16,000+ for income-qualified households — and for lower-income homes, the Energy Conservation Assistance Program can install one for free. Your exact number depends on your income and utility.
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Free, no sales calls — just your real number based on your home and income.
Estimate my rebates →Keep it running efficiently
- Replace or clean filters yearly.
- Hold a steady temperature instead of big swings.
- Use "heat" or "cool" modes rather than "auto."
- Keep the outdoor unit clear of snow, leaves and clutter.
- Book a professional check every 1–2 years.
Want to compare brands? See Mitsubishi vs. Daikin vs. Bosch. Wondering if it replaces your AC too? Heat pump vs. AC vs. furnace.
Source: BC Hydro — Heat pumps. Rebate amounts change; confirm current figures at BetterHomes BC.